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Created by Penn Art History 501

Textiles - Tools

Textile tools are often the only remaining traces of textile production and trade present throughout the history of the Near and Middle East. The Penn Museum is lucky to have several examples from the Neolithic period onward that help inform our understanding of this industry.
Spindle Whorls
Loom Weights
Bone Tools
Pseudomorphs
 

Spindle Whorls

Spindle whorls are tools utilized to process raw material into yarn for weaving. The common characteristics of a spindle whorl are a central hole and a generally circular shape. These holes would have held a shaft, generally made of wood. The spindle whorl could be placed on the bottom or top of the shaft, depending on the spinning technique. Spindle whorl shapes vary, though our focus objects are flat, conical, biconical, and bell shaped. The raw fiber was attached to the shaft and the whole apparatus would be spun. The whorl provided enough weight to keep the shaft spinning for a time, gradually drawing the fiber into thread. More information on this process is available on the Manufacture page.
These three spindle whorls are from the time in Gawra's history representing the transition from the Ubaid to Early Uruk periods. They are made from terracotta, or fired clay, and are likely formed by hand. Terracotta spindle whorls are small enough that they could be fired locally along with other objects in kilns. There are three shapes represented here: conical, biconical, and a knob shape. Only the biconical whorl (35-10-161) preserves added decoration, including a ruffled edge and  three concentric circles on the flat side. All three include some evidence of use. 
Made from light colored clay, this teardrop-shaped object was labeled a spindle whorl by the excavators. The top is decorated with five pairs of two lines in reddish paint. The piercing, however, is not in the center of the object. The piercing itself is also made at an angle with an inconsistent diameter. Symmetry is important in a spindle whorl as an asymmetrical piercing can lead to wobbling during the spinning process. The underside of the object is also telling as it is deeply concave. This would also lead to some instability during spinning. With this evidence taken into account, this object is likely not a spindle whorl. Further research will have to be done to better understand its original function. 
Picture
37-11-1019 | Spindle Whorls, Rayy, bone (ivory?).
These four diverse spindle whorls come from Rayy's early Islamic layers. The excavators originally identified these objects as buttons or beads due to their small size, but closer inspection reveals wear indicative of spinning.  Much smaller than the other whorls on this page, the largest (B) weighs around 4g and the others weigh around 2g. Such small whorls may have been used to spin cotton or silk. A and B are both domed with similar ornamentation consisting of incised circles and dots, not unlike the other bone tools from Rayy discussed below. C and D are both conical, though their decoration differs. C consists of elaborate carved geometric forms highlighted with incised dots. The underside is lightly beveled toward the piercing. D is simpler with similar geometric forms incised on the top. Its underside is deeply carved with two concentric circles. Both C and D preserve green staining, C on its underside and edges and D on most of surface. This discoloration is possibly caused by contact with metal after deposit. 

 

Loom Weights

Loom weights are archaeological markers of the warp-weighted loom. The weights are attached to the hanging warp threads, keeping them taut during the weaving process. A heavier weight generally indicates a thicker warp thread, while a lighter weight points to a thinner thread. 
Picture
32-21-562 | Loom Weight. Iraq, Gawra. Reddish buff ware.
Picture
32-21-324 | Loom Weight. Iraq, Gawra. Greenish gray ware.
The two objects here are identified as loom weights. They are both made from terracotta of similar color and have the same general shape with a pinched center creating two roughly pointed ends.The end of the warp could be fastened to this central portion, with the wider edges keeping it from slipping. Though the chronology of these pieces is unknown, the weight on the left appears less refined in its form with the two ends being uneven. This weight is relatively flat and includes an "X" incised before firing. There is some wear on the central portion as well as impression in the clay. The weight on the right is round with generally regular, conical ends. The pinched central portion is significantly deeper as well. Both weights are of similar dimensions, but the weight on the left is significantly heavier at 44g while the right weighs 28g. This may indicate that the weight on the left was used to weave textiles with thicker threads.
 

Other Bone Tools

Just as in the spindle whorls from Rayy, bone was commonly used to fashion the tools of the textile industry. Bone is both durable and malleable while also easily accepting decoration. The tools below come from both Rayy and Gawra, representing the use of bone in textile tools across millennia.
These two objects are from very different historical periods, but are strikingly similar in form. Both made of bone, one end is carved and the other is fashioned into a point Both show  of evidence wear on their pointed edges. These may have functioned as awls, or tools used to pierce holes in materials like leather. They may have also functioned as weaving tools to thread the weft through the warp. The fine point would facilitate this process.
Identified as loom weights, these objects from Rayy pose a challenge to interpreters. Made of bone, each example preserves decoration similar to the other Rayy tools on this page with incised circles. The decoration is contained to the upper third of one side of each object.

The distinct style of ornament with incised circles is consistent throughout the bone materials from Rayy on this page. These circles may reference protective evil eye motifs. Similar designs are found on bone objects from Nishapur, a contemporary site east of Rayy. These "weights" are particularly valuable the ornamentation seems to create faces with stylized eyes and eyebrows. 

They could have functioned as loom weights, but it is also possible that they were used to beat the weft. There is evidence of wear primarily on the left edges of each of object. The rounded ends of these objects would be useful for this process. ​
Picture
37-11-1015 | Pin. Iran, Rayy.
Made from animal bone, this find from Rayy continues the pattern of decoration we see elsewhere on this page. There are three incised circles on each side, highlighted in dark paint. The tip shaft of the pointed end shows some evidence of wear. The pin itself is carved into what may be the shape of an animal and it is likely that this pin functioned as a decorative element to fasten clothing. 
 

Pseudomorphs

The presence of textile impressions on other objects is one of the few ways we are able to study ancient textiles themselves. They are commonly found on ceramic vessels, metal objects, and sometimes on stone. Pseudomorphs do not necessarily preserve the fibers of the textile, but rather form through a chemical process when the textile and metal object remain in contact. As the metal breaks down it leaves a negative of the fibers, like a fossil.
​
Sources:
​
Breniquet, Catherine. ​"Weaving in Mesopotamia during the Bronze Age: Archaeology, techniques, iconography." Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennia BC. Oxbow (2010).

Sauvage, Caroline. "Spinning from Old Threads: The Whorls from Ugarit at the Musée d'Archaeologie Nationale (Saint-Germain-en-Laye) and at the Louvre." Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East. Oxbow (2012)

de Schauensee, Maude. Two Lyres from Ur. University of Pennsylvania (2002).

Strand, Eva Andersson. "The Basics of Textile Tools and Textile Technology: From Fibre to Fabric."Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennia BC. Oxbow (2010).

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Header Image by Peter Miller is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
  • Focus Objects
    • Obsidian, Steatite, Diorite, & Alabaster
    • Precious & Semi-Precious Stones
    • Gold, Silver, & Lead
    • Copper Continuum
    • Ancient Textiles
    • Early Modern Textiles
    • Silk
    • China Trade
  • Manufacture
    • Obsidian, Steatite, Diorite, & Alabaster
    • Precious Stones & Semi-Precious Stones
    • Gold, Silver, & Lead
    • Copper Continuum
    • Ancient Textiles
    • Textiles
    • Silk
    • China Trade
  • Cultural Context
    • Gawra
    • Ur
    • Hissar
    • Khafajeh
    • Hasanlu
    • Rayy
    • Safavid Empire
    • Ethnographic Materials
  • Themes of Trade
    • Why People Traded >
      • Why People Traded Common Stones
      • Why People Traded Precious Stones
      • Why People Traded Gold & Silver
      • Why People Traded Copper
      • Why People Traded Ancient Textiles
      • Why People Traded Early Modern Textiles
      • Why People Traded Silk
      • Why People Traded with China
    • How People Traded >
      • How People Traded Obsidian, Steatite, & Diorite
      • How People Traded Precious Stones
      • How People Traded Gold & Silver
      • How People Traded Copper
      • How People Traded Textiles in Antiquity
      • How People Traded Silk
      • How People Traded Textiles in Historic Periods
      • How People Traded with China
    • Mechanics of Trade >
      • Neolithic & Chalcolithic
      • Royal Cemetery of Ur
      • Old Babylonian
      • Neo-Assyrian
      • Medieval Rayy
      • Safavid
      • 19th Century Ethnographic
  • How Do We Know
  • Glossary
  • About